The Indian Express | Rohini Nilekani Writes: Why Heat Action Plans must factor in access to ‘smart’ fabrics

India is not alone. Europe and the US are experiencing extreme heat across large swathes of land, with the added danger of deadly wildfires. Heat claims more than 1,75,000 lives in Europe annually. In India, while thousands suffer or die, government data is unreliable. An analysis from Down to Earth estimates that a single five-day heat wave leads to 30,000 excess deaths in summer. This is way above official figures, though state governments are trying to better classify deaths from heat exposure.

In the West, despite the rising heat, summers are still about getting fit, unpacking the bikinis and shorts, and heading outdoors. In India, skimpy wear does not take over the season. Linen kurtas and cotton dhotis do. Natural fibres, khadi, light colours, and thin fabrics become ubiquitous, from the high street to the fashion ramp. And of course, there is the most popular gamcha or thin cotton towel.

Yet, it is worth asking a serious question: What should human beings wear in the face of rising heat? Will traditional clothing suffice? Is cotton really the fabric of choice?

In dry climates, it might well be. Cotton has always been celebrated for its breathability, accessibility and affordability in India. India is the world’s second-largest producer of cotton after China, and fine handspun cotton always had pride of place in its textile history.

Can cotton retain its reputation when things get both hotter and more humid? A “wet bulb” temperature of 35°C, when high heat combines with high humidity, creates a deadly combination for human beings. The body’s natural cooling mechanisms fail, making exposure life-threatening.

Cotton and other natural fibers do absorb sweat, but only up to a point. When ambient humidity is high, they dry slowly, leaving the fabric sticking to the body, increasing trapped heat and the risk of skin infections. They also do not provide protection against harmful ultraviolet rays, which are linked to cancer.

Humid heat is increasing across India, especially in the Indo-Gangetic plain, which shelters half a billion people. When half the population works outdoors, or indoors with poor insulation, what to wear is a question not just for frustrated teenagers but for every worker and citizen. At home, in the workplace, or in public spaces, people will have to think carefully about protective clothing.

In a country almost romantically attached to its natural fibres, especially khadi and cotton, it might be hard to face a startling reality — manmade fibres are better for adapting to heat stress caused by climate change. Recently, in Varanasi, Blinkit delivery partners went on strike to demand, among other things, cotton uniforms for the summer. Perhaps they should have asked for more sophisticated materials.

There has been a stunning revolution in material science and biomimicry-inspired textiles in the past few years. Athletes and urban cyclists and joggers were the earliest adopters of synthetic fibres designed to wick away sweat. But the need is far greater for farmers, construction workers and street vendors with high occupational exposure. How can we rethink the future of clothing?

Elsewhere, innovation has been driven by governments. The US set up the Advanced Research Projects Agency-Energy (ARPA-E) to fund and direct discovery across a wide range of technology areas. As part of that mission, Professor Yi Cui and his team at Stanford University developed a textile that is transparent to infrared wavelengths and radiates heat away from the body. Already marketed in China, he claims it is not too expensive to take to a mass market, and would be critical for farmers around the world as part of a climate adaptation strategy.

Other biomimetic fibres are being tested, some inspired by polar bear hairs with high porosity and aligned pores, for superior thermal insulation. New phase change materials (PCMs) integrated into fabrics can absorb excess heat and release it when things cool down. The list of climate-smart wearable technologies is growing longer.

India will have to develop its own innovation engine to suit our needs. On July 1, the Union cabinet approved the Research, Development and Innovation (RDI) Scheme with an outlay of Rs 1 lakh crore, which will support the development or acquisition of technologies of high strategic importance. Some of these funds should be directed to make wearable cooling technologies affordable and available to all citizens at the earliest.

Many states and cities are creating and implementing heat action plans. So far, none are investigating strategies to help people access smarter fabrics. The RDI scheme might be the right nudge for fresh thinking. This is one opportunity for both sarkaar and bazaar to be accountable to the samaaj, to thwart an unimaginable human crisis if the modelling on warming in India proves accurate.

Khadi was deeply associated with India’s independence movement. It will always remain precious. But the past may not always inform the future. Swadeshi new fibres might better dress up the mission for a healthier, more resilient Bharat.

The writer is chairperson, Rohini Nilekani Philanthropies and author of Samaaj, Sarkaar, Bazaar: A Citizen-first Approach.